Useful Tips

Corner Processing


Greetings to all lovers of sewing!

When bending along the bottom of products, a sewing lover often has to face various obstacles. In the form of angles, for example.

You can “collide” with corners at slots, cuts, rebounds and on fly-off parts. How to hem the bottom of the product for these parts of clothing? You will find a detailed answer to this question in today's article.

There are several ways to process corners along the bottom of the products. Some of them are interchangeable. That is, the same methods can be used in processing: the corners of cuts, and rebounds, and slots, and on fly-off parts.

However, there are significant differences in the execution of different angles on the hem. The method of processing the angle depends on which particular angle the processing is performed (incision, slot, flanging, take-off part), and therefore on each particular sewn model.

Angle processing at sections.

Fold in a section with rounded corners.

On models of shirts, blouses, etc., for cuts with rounded corners, where the side seam line smoothly passes into the bottom line and vice versa, the bottom is processed in two ways: 1) stitches, but much more often 2) with narrow shirt binder.

For execution narrow shirt binder the allowance is allocated 1.2 cm wide (6 mm in finished form). No more, no less.

No less - because the hem Atthan 6 mm, it will look ugly, and folding a tiny allowance several times is quite difficult. And not more than 1.2 cm? So on roundings where the allowance is planned to be wider than the proposed one, it will not be possible to “lay” it into a double hem at all.

All work with the processing of sections at the cuts and at the bottom of the product begins only after the side seams are completed. At the bottom of the model, and then along the sections that smoothly “flow out” from the bottom, we perform double bending (a narrow hem to bending with a closed cut).

We iron all material additions

and fasten with stitching (seam width 5 mm).

The hem is narrow (angles are straight, blunt and sharp).

If it is planned to process the bottom of the product with a narrow double hem (from 0.6 to 1.2 cm), then the cuts can also be processed with the same hem.

At the bottom of the product and along the cut line for bending, absolutely equal allowances are allocated (1.2 - 2.4 cm).

In the corner, along the line perpendicular to the bisector of the angle, cut off the triangle. The cut line runs in the middle of the segment (distance: from the corner at the intersection of the fabric sections to the angle at the intersection of the marking lines).

Exactly at the intersection of the lines of the marking lines,

along the line perpendicular to the bisector of the angle, we bend the remaining allowance in half, unscrewing it on the wrong side and iron the resulting bend.

After the inferred lines of the bottom and the cut, we tighten the allowances for the hem. Time.

All material additions are fixed with temporary manual stitches.

Ironing fabric folds

and at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the internal folds of the double bending (at the cuts and along the bottom) we lay the machine line.

Bending of the bottom and at the sections with a seam is a hem with an open cut (the corners are obtuse, straight and sharp).

The allowances for bottom hemming and for making cuts in this way may be the same, or it may vary (according to the model), but there and there the seam is hemmed with an open cut.

If you, dear lovers of sewing, have full confidence that the product you sew no longer needs to be adjusted either in width or in length, then you can immediately process the cuts of the allowances along the bottom and along the cuts,

bend and sweep down the hem

and make a seam (lateral or embossed) in which the cut will be.

After we bend and sweep inside out, and allowances for bending at cuts.

As you can see, when machining the bottom at the corners of the cuts, the first allowances for bending the bottom of the product are tucked, then the allowances for the cuts. Only in this way, during the operation of the product, the “inside” of the product will not be visible in sections.

After all these sewing manipulations, we iron the area being processed on the product

and we build (according to the model, optionally, etc.)

Or like this (for a narrow hem, up to 1 cm wide).

Delays at the cuts and at the bottom of the product should “be in tune” with the style of the model being sewn, with the same delay on other elements of the same model.

For example, for the general appearance of the model, it would be good if the distances: 1) from the end of the cut to the transverse line (stitching the cut from the top) and 2) from the cut line to the delay along its sides, were the same.

From the wrong side, the tips of the allowances for hemming sections can be secured with manual fastening (several (5-7) stitches) laid on top of each other.

Or just sew in a secret stitch.

The view from the face of the product processed in the corner at the cuts with a seam in a hem with an open cut.

Processing the bottom of the product and cuts with different seams.

The seams that process the bottom of the product and cuts can be different. For example, on the bottom, a hem is applied to the hem with an open cut or closed (for thin fabrics), and the cuts are processed with narrow seams with closed slices.

Corner processing for bows.

The corners of the products of unlined kits, whether it is solid-cut kits or stitched, are processed in two ways. The material in the corner is either folded, as shown in the following method (method No. 5), or the selection is adjusted to the lower edge of the product (method No. 6). We call these methods the conditional selection and bending of a seam with an open cut, and the selection and bending of a seam with a closed cut.

Seam-fit and hem with open cut.

First of all, it is tucked on the wrong side and an allowance for hem on the bottom is swept.

Then the allowance on the lower edge of the product: 1) is either sewn manually with a countersunk line 2) or it can be adjusted with a finishing machine (with threads in the color of the material or contrasting) (according to the model).

Then we reduce the thickness of the product in the corner near the pick, making a die-cutting of excess material on the allowance. After this, the bead is bent along the line drawn on the shelf, swept over on the wrong side of the product, and the resulting bend or seam of the sewing-in of the pick is ironed.

The edge of the folded pick is “tacked” by manual fastening

or sewn with hand-sewn stitch.

Here is one way of processing the bottom of the product in the corner near the pick.

Seam matching and hemming with closed cut.

On the basting line (bottom line) we bend the overboard to the front side of the shelf.

And on the bottom line, we adjust the board to the shelf with a machine line. At the ends of the lines we carry out the stitching.

Reduce the thickness of the allowances in the corner by cutting off part of the allowance for the seam on the pick. And we round the corners on the allowances (you can cut off the triangle).

We turn off the subboard on the front side of the shelf, we straighten the corner.

After that, the sub-side is swept on the wrong side of the shelf, and on the bottom we double-fold (closed hem seam).

We iron the formed corner, the underboard and the hem of the bottom

and we defer. Stitching can be performed: 1) only at the bottom of the product. The width of the stitch (and therefore the width of the allowances previously allocated to the seam) can be very different. 2) Stitching can be performed both on the bottom and on the selection at the same time. (The stitching width is both there and there according to the model). The number of stitches, the color of the thread for the stitches, the type of stitches - all this is dictated by the sewn model.

Rounded corner processing.

Rounded corners are always better to grind. But if the material allows, the allowance is not reprinted on the front side, this kind of corners can be processed as follows.

The rolled edge at the rounded corners should lie flat. To do this, the excess stock material in the rounded area should be removed by collecting it.

To pick up the excess, we put two lines along the allowance (one along the edge).

And then with the help of a template (a copy of the processed corner on the cardboard) and with the help of the lines (we tighten them) we assemble the excess material. The accumulation of material formed in the rounded corner is ironed, thereby reducing the thickness of the product in this place.

Now the assembled allowance can be secured from the inside out manually, with a hidden stitch or stitched onto the main product (according to the model).

Angles on take-off parts.

There is another kind of corners that you can meet when performing a hem. These are the corners on the take-off parts. In principle, any of the methods of the methods described above is suitable for processing such angles. But best of all, of course, the corners are treated with envelope on the flyaway parts.

Both cuts, on allowances from both ends of the corner, should be treated from shedding.

We turn on the seamy side the allowance for bottom hem and mark the line of the edge of the allowance.

Then we turn on the seamy side the allowance along the other edge of the part and also mark the edge of its allowance.

Now we connect both marks and the angle formed by the lines marked on the fabric.

Fold the part with the front side inward. And we add so that the segments of the planned line coincide.

On the chalk line, we lay the strike machine line. At the ends of the lines we carry out the stitching.

The seam allowance is cut to 0.5 cm.

And then in the corner we cut off a small corner.

It is very convenient to iron seams of this kind on universal tailor's shoe.

On it there is always some kind of ledge and in order to be able to straighten the corner.

Corner envelope ready.

Overshoots of the sides of the take-off part coming from the corner can be hemmed with hand-held hidden stitching (from the wrong side) or delayed from the face (this is done much more often). Stitching width (as well as allowance width) according to the model.

Corner processing at the slots.

The processing of the angles of the slots, of course, somewhat resembles the same for cuts, picks and on fly-off parts, however, it has certain subtleties in execution. Therefore, the processing of the angles of the slots should not be considered a separate unit, but in a complex. And this topic needs a separate article. The slot on the jacket, skirt and sleeve, we will consider all these sewing operations separately.

And that's all for today! Bye everyone! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

What do we need?

  • ruler and pencil (or stencil)
  • scissors
  • iron

We measure the necessary distance from the edges and perform a standard double hem. We smooth the first hem.

We smooth the second hem.

We open the fabric and make a marking in the form of a square. We mark an equilateral triangle in the corner. Cut off this part.

We return the hem to the place.

We bend the formed angle inward. You can fix it with a pin.

We perform the second bend and smooth.

It remains only to hem the hem with minimal indentation.

Done! Nice, isn't it?

In this way, you can also process the edges of towels and potholders. The seam is obtained not only neat, but also reliable.

Basic recommendations

Sewing a hole on clothes is right for even novice housewives. Check out the standard repair rules first:

  1. So that the seam on the fabric is not visible, the thickness of the needle should correspond to the density of the matter. Too thick a needle leaves ugly holes. Ideally, it is better to take a needle for embroidery with beads - the thinnest.
  2. Do not forget that the color of the threads should match the fabric as much as possible.
  3. Make sure that there are enough threads in the needle.
  4. Work slowly.
  5. Always carry a sprayer with you.
  6. The needles should be new, even and free of rust.

If the first time you can’t make a beautiful and invisible seam, do not worry and train more. Sewing is a difficult task, but with practice it begins to bring pleasure.

Repairing clothes with a needle and thread

A longitudinal hole is easily darned with a primitive seam manually. To do this, fold the edges from the inside and fasten them “forward with a needle”. In addition, we sew a seam “over the edge” and fix the thread to the knot. Sewing "snake" imitates a machine line. So repair things that are seamed. It is very convenient to darn a hole in the toe and pantyhose with a “snake”.

What to do with things in which a hole formed in a prominent place? There are several tricks that will quickly return the fabric to its proper appearance.

Small items sometimes appear on knitwear, in inconspicuous places or in a prominent area. Often, such defects occur on T-shirts, T-shirts, shorts, sweatpants and leggings after machine wash.

It’s easy to fix them with circular sewing, and nobody will notice anything:

  1. We take the thread exactly in the color of the fabric.
  2. We pass each loop with stitches, moving in a circle and tightening the thread. We work on the wrong side and constantly check how the fabric looks from the front.
  3. The hole will gradually tighten.
  4. Do not forget to fasten the thread from the inside so that the seam does not dispose.

In the same way, a woolen sweater, sweater, pullover is repaired.

Another example of a darn that hide a round hole on a piece of thin knitwear:

  1. We take out a thin kapron thread of their unnecessary tights.
  2. From the front side we hook the loops and fasten them with a thread, without pulling together the fabric.
  3. Finish sewing from the inside, fasten the thread with a knot.
  4. Iron the darning place with a hot iron. The kapron thread will melt a little and close the defect.

Jerseys have holes in the seam area, especially under the armpit: holes form there at an angle, and it is no longer possible to stitch them with standard machine stitch.

  1. We prepare a thin hook and threads for knitting, similar in thickness and color to the fabric of the thing.
  2. We hook the loop and stretch it through the next one.
  3. At the end, we fix everything with a needle.

Jeans are often wiped between the legs from frequent wear and washing. Sew this place unnoticed by simulating the weaving of threads in the fabric.

Better use the machine line:

  1. Turn the pants inside out.
  2. First, we sew the torn part along several lines, then do the same across. From the threads should be a dense mesh. On the front side, this work is very similar to the structure of denim.

If the jeans fabric is not damaged in a critical place, such as a leg or pocket, then try punching. If necessary, make the cut wider, stretch the longitudinal threads and rub the edges with sandpaper to give them fluffy.


Massive products are best entrusted to the atelier workers, since you can’t do without ripping off the lining. It is especially offensive when an expensive fur coat suffers. Holes on the fur appear mainly on the sleeves, in the armpits. To fix the defect, you will need a thread in the color of the fur, glue moment and a medical bandage.

  1. Sew torn edges with each other.
  2. Cut a small strip of bandage.
  3. Put a little glue on the bandage.
  4. We apply a bandage to the seam.
  5. We lay out the fur coat on a flat surface and wait for a couple of days to dry.


Repairing sheets, pillowcases and other bedding requires special care. An uneven seam not only looks ugly, but also causes discomfort during sleep. If the sheet is torn in the center, it means that the fabric in this place has been erased and will no longer fulfill its function. Cut the sheet in half, and then sew so that the edges are in the center. Do not forget to overcast new edges.

Miss Cleanliness magazine recommends sewing holes in bedclothes immediately after detection, otherwise they will grow quickly.

To make the seam tight and not split, sew stitches as close as possible.

Repair without a needle

A tape for gluing fabric will help out if a defect appears on beautiful trousers or a shirt. We cut out a small piece of tape and apply it from the wrong side to the place of the hole, having previously tightened its edges. Cover the tape with a cloth, sprinkle with water. Heat the iron and place the sole against the patch for 10 seconds. Done! Turn around and enjoy the result.

In this way, it will be possible to repair the holes on the fabric burned from a cigarette, including on outerwear: jackets, parks, coats.

Beautiful patches

If a small hole is easy to eliminate in ordinary ways, then with a large defect it is necessary to connect creative abilities. The easiest way is to carry out repairs with thermal stickers. They are sold at any needlework store.

Different decorative stickers are selected in accordance with the style of clothing. By the way, this way you can not only mask damage, but also create original clothes. For children's dresses there are heart patches, for boy's t-shirts and pants - with the image of cartoon characters.

Bursting upholstery on the sofa or chair seat is also masked with patches. Holes on the thinnest tulle cannot be sewn up invisibly, but thermal stickers with floral ornaments, butterflies, etc. will come to the rescue.

The patch should not only completely cover the hole, but also go beyond its edges. This ensures product integrity.

Do not rush to get rid of the product if its defect can be repaired. A neat line or a beautiful applique will return a thing to order.