If you are going to completely change the skirting boards and floorboards, then everything is simple. Drive the nail puller with a pointed blade under the baseboard and use the Archimedean theory of leverage to the full power of human intelligence. If you are going to put floorboards and baseboards in place, then options are possible.
If you have a baseboard:
Painted wooden, nailed to the floor, nail caps simply recessed into the wood (sometimes sticking out above the surface of the baseboard) and painted (rusted) - 55%.
Here, too, everything is simple. You drive the nail puller (1) with a pointed blade under the baseboard (2) in the place where the baseboard is attached to the floor and tear off the baseboard. According to the above theory, at the point of support of the nail clipper on the floor board, there will be pressure, 5 times greater than the efforts you made. Simply put, you push a hole in the floorboard. To increase the area of the nail support on the floorboard and thereby reduce the pressure, plywood or a thin board (4) is placed under the nail at the support point (3):
Figure 1141.1. Establishment of a mold under the baseboard nailed to the floor.
If the skirting board was broken during dismantling or the nails forced the skirting board and remained in the floor, or were so long that the short arm of the nail clutch lever is not enough to completely pull out the nail, then a wooden block is additionally placed at the point of support of the nail clipper on the floorboard:
Figure 1141.2. Dismantling the baseboard nailed to the floor.
In order not to break the baseboard, start dismantling from the edge. Lift the skirting 1-3 cm from the floorboard in the first place of fastening, then on the second nail and on all the others, repeat the manipulations in the indicated order until you remove the skirting. The farther from the attachment point you will drive the nail clipper under the baseboard, the more likely the baseboard will break.
If you are going to change the skirting boards for new ones or you cannot pull out the nails without damaging the surface of the floorboard, you can use a chisel to remove the layer of wood around the nail head and then pull out the nails, clinging the nail to the head with a nail clipper. At the same time, the nail support point is on the baseboard or on a framed wooden block.
Painted wooden, nailed to the floor, nail caps recessed into the wood, puttied (clogged with choppers) and painted - 33%
Usually skirting boards are fastened through 50-70 cm, the extreme fastenings are 10-20 cm from the wall. If you can’t find the nail caps, drive the nail puller with a pointed blade under the baseboard 10-20 cm from the wall and try to gradually raise the baseboard. Thus, the first nail is exposed, and in the place where the baseboard is bent and begins to move away from the floor, most likely there is a second nail. Otherwise, the dismantling technology is the same as in the first case.
Wooden covered with colorless or tinted varnish, no hats of nails or screws are visible, there are only some kind of knots - 2%
Most likely these are not knots, but wooden plugs; they are usually used for baseboards painted with colorless or tinted varnish. They are quite easy to find by the characteristic dark rim or, in extreme cases, by the texture of the tree:
Photo 1141.1. View of a wooden stub on an oak plank
The surface of the stub is a transverse section of wood, the surface of the plinth is a longitudinal section of wood. Typically, plugs are drilled or knocked out with a narrow chisel.
Usually skirting boards are fastened through 40-70 cm, the extreme fastenings are 10-20 cm from the wall. If you can’t find the hats of the screws, drive the nail clipper with a pointed spatula under the skirting board 10-20 cm from the wall and try to shake the skirting board a little. Usually putty in the places of fastening is cracking.
Wooden veneered with precious wood trim with latch in mounting brackets - 0.5%
There are 2 types of mounting brackets for skirting boards: with the skirting board mounted on top and with the skirting board snapping onto the wall. To dismantle such skirting boards it is better to use a wide spatula. Try to push the trowel from the bottom and raise the baseboard, if the baseboard does not rise, try to snap the baseboard out, pushing the spatula between the baseboard and the wall.
↑ Features of dismantling the floor from smooth and grooved boards.
- Sawed off pieces of boards are lifted with a wide chisel until then, until it becomes possible to place a bench chisel under them. Smooth flooring requires a special approach.
- To start the dismantling process, a wide chisel will be required. The tool is placed at the junction of the floorboards from the beginning on one side, then on the opposite side. In this case, it plays the role of a kind of lever for lifting heavy boards. To increase the diameter of the formed gap will help the hammer and nail puller.
- When dismantling a floor with tongue-and-groove boards, it will be necessary to remove the tongue. The operation is performed with a hacksaw with the narrowest blade or jigsaw. The comb must be carefully cut out, otherwise lag defects cannot be avoided.
- After removing the tongue, you can safely cut the board in half and remove it with a chisel. You can also use the method of pulling the board from under the baseboard by lifting it to the maximum height. If there is a partition, the board will have to be cut with a hand or electric saw.
The dismantling of the wooden floor is most often required for the installation of new modern analogues or because of the presence of signs of decay, erosion by tree-eating bugs. The technological process of removing the floor is simple: it requires a simple tool and patience. As you remove the boards do not forget to prepare bags for construction filling, sawdust and other construction waste.
Dismantling old floors: the secrets to a successful repair
Dismantling of old floors can be carried out not only during the implementation of major repairs in an apartment or house, but also in case of loss of aesthetic and operational qualities of the coating. There are some helpful suggestions that can help you make spot or local repairs on your coating as soon as possible. All of them are described in detail in this article.
Reasons for dismantling the old wooden floor in the apartment
Wooden floor has a long period of operation, which can be more than 50 years. However, over time, such a coating begins to produce an unpleasant creak, loses an attractive appearance. From constant exposure to moisture in an insufficiently heated room, a fungus may form. In this case, the floor needs to be dismantled.
When laying a laminate, parquet or other material, it is necessary to create certain conditions, the main of which is the organization of an even foundation. The old coating will not cope with this task, therefore, it is undergoing major repairs or screed on a wooden floor.
The reasons for dismantling a wooden floor can be very different, the following can be distinguished from them:
- arrangement of a new floor covering,
- loss of attractive appearance and heavy wear of wooden flooring,
- high level of humidity in the room, which requires the implementation of measures to combat mold,
- mechanical damage or rotting of wooden floorboards,
- unpleasant creak and dips in some places that occur while moving on the surface,
- deformational changes in the floor surface,
- the destruction of wooden boards by insects,
- the use of low-quality materials and making mistakes when laying flooring.
You can determine the process of decay of wooden boards by tapping the floor with a hammer in different places. If the sound is dull, the element is damaged and needs to be replaced. Complete dismantling of the floor is carried out when such a sound is emitted anywhere on the surface when struck with a hammer.
Options for dismantling the wooden floor in the house
You can dismantle wooden floors with your own hands in two ways, which depends on the expected final result.
The first option involves quick dismantling without maintaining the integrity of the coating elements. This method is used in case of absolute unsuitability of the floor. This method also needs to be applied in the case of fixing wooden elements to glue or long nails. Carefully remove the boards with such a fix will not work.
The second option involves the dismantling of boards with the preservation of their integrity. This method is used when planning the re-installation of floors in the apartment, and also, if necessary, to eliminate the mistakes made when laying the coating. When performing work on the second method, it is recommended to number all the boards. This is necessary to facilitate the re-installation of the coating, since the boards will easily fit together. This option is also used in case of floor deflection. To eliminate this drawback, it is enough to add a few lags under the boards, providing a step between them of no more than 50 cm.
Work starts from the end of the room near the doorway: by means of the mount, boards are podded. This technique will allow you to most conveniently and quickly clean up the garbage that appears. The process of dismantling the floor from the board is carried out carefully, without the use of brute force. It should be remembered that engineering communications can take place under the floors. In old houses you can find unused ventilation shafts, which are recommended to be cleaned and put into operation.
Methods of repairing floors in the apartment: detailed description
The board flooring in the apartment can last at least 30 years. For the first floors, this period is reduced by at least 10 years. The most common option for repairing the floor on the logs in the apartment is culling and replacing individual floorboards. It is advisable to use such a spot repair if the number of unsuitable boards is no more than 15% of their total number.
This process is performed if there are no signs of insect or fungus damage on the floor, there are signs of condensation, or a satisfactory state of the lag system. This method allows you to perform floor insulation without dismantling the old floor.
The process begins by discarding the boards to be replaced. Between them, side seams are cut. Then the floorboard is freed from the nails and removed.
Next, you should lay a patch prepared with an antiseptic agent and treated with an antiseptic agent on a wooden floor with a gap of 1 mm, which is necessary to avoid the appearance of a creaking coating after the formation of humidity in the room. In tongue-and-groove boards, the lower edge of the lock groove is pre-cut. Bookmarks are fixed with nails 60-70 mm, which are hammered obliquely.
How to make a floor in an apartment without dismantling a wooden coating
If there are loose or bent floorboards in the flooring, their repair is carried out by driving nails in new places at an angle of 60-70 degrees. However, such a repair is enough for 2-3 years. After some time, under the influence of a constant moderate load, the nail caps will rise. They will have to be driven back.
The cause of the deflection of the board in the central part may be the destruction of the log beams under the floorboards. In this case, the repair of the wooden floor in Khrushchev is carried out by using the support pins. For this, the line of passage of the log beam under the floorboard is determined. Next, a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made, which should not coincide with this line.
To ensure good alignment of the board, the swinging floorboard should be unloaded. A wooden pin is hammered into the hole, the tip of which must reach the concrete floor. Thanks to such repairs, the floorboard gains additional support that can withstand any furniture.
In case of severe subsidence of the floor, it is necessary to remove the boards and perform the restoration of the lag system. To do this, you can replace some elements with new ones or patch on the side surfaces of additional boards. At this stage, you can perform additional warming of the old wooden floor without dismantling the log beams. The material fits into the space between the elements.
If stitched lag beams are found that rely on brick columns, the entire system is disassembled and restored again with the laying of bricks on the masonry mortar.
How to make a floor in an apartment without dismantling a wooden base
You can extend the life of a wooden floor with a concrete screed. The surface will become solid and even, it will be possible to lay any floor covering on it. The screed is made according to a certain technology, taking into account the characteristics of the wood base. The pouring process is carried out according to the principle of an incoherent screed, which eliminates the possibility of deformation.
For a good interaction of concrete and wood, the wooden surface should be primed and coated with a durable waterproofing film. To exclude the possibility of subsidence of the screed or kink in weak places, plasticizers should be added to the masonry mixture, which give the solution good fluidity, ductility, strength and water resistance.
The technology of pouring the self-leveling floor onto a wooden base begins with the preparation of the surface, which consists in detecting weak points that should be eliminated. All existing slots are sealed with sealant or foam. Then, a primer in two or three layers is applied to the surface. At the next stage, zero level marking is performed, the thickness of the screed is determined.
Further activities related to the arrangement of waterproofing. A damper tape must be attached to the wall, the width of which should be 1 cm greater than the height of the screed. Next, a waterproofing film is laid with an overlap of 8-10 cm and a 15 cm approach to the walls. At this stage, you can warm the old wooden floor with foam without dismantling.
The first layer of concrete without beacons is poured on top. Next, a reinforcing mesh is laid, beacons are installed, after which a second layer of the mixture is applied. Instead of reinforcing mesh, you can use fiber, which is added to the finished solution. The material helps strengthen concrete in all directions, eliminating the possibility of delamination and cracking.
The sequence of dismantling the wooden floor in the house
Before you remove the old floor, you must completely empty the room and clean the floor of debris. Next, you need to prepare the necessary tools: a hammer with a nail puller, a mount, a screwdriver, an hatchet, a jigsaw, a shovel, a hacksaw, pincers, a sledgehammer, a chisel, screwdrivers. It is imperative to purchase personal respiratory and eye protection. Work is recommended to be done with gloves to eliminate the risk of splintering.
The dismantling of the old floor, the average price of which is 280 rubles / m², begins with the removal of the baseboards located along the perimeter of the room along the walls. In order not to damage this element, its dismantling is carried out from the end, from the location of the last nail, which is hooked with a crowbar. In the same way, the baseboard is disconnected at each attachment point. The price of dismantling old floors does not include the cost of removing baseboards.
To remove the plastic baseboard, it is necessary to remove the protective strip, unscrew the fasteners and separate the product from the wall.
Next, the process of dismantling the wooden floor in a private house or apartment is carried out directly. Along one of the floorboards, which is adjacent to the wall, a cut is carried out along its central part with a jigsaw, a circulation saw or an ordinary saw. A crowbar is inserted into this hole to pry off one of the halves of the board, which is subsequently removed. Then the second part of the sawn floorboard is removed.
For other boards, sawing is performed with a jigsaw in a direction perpendicular to the removed floorboard, dividing the elements into sections 30-60 cm long. Such a process is carried out if the boards do not need to be kept in an integral form. After removing one element, proceed to dismantle the next.
If boards need to be kept, each element should be lifted evenly from one edge to another. The final stage of dismantling is a thorough garbage collection to the ground.
If you plan to replace the lag, the first step is to remove the insulation material that is between the elements. Further, all parts of the system are broken with an ax or crowbar and thrown away.
Dismantling of old floors made of different materials
In the case of laying roll material on the floor, for dismantling it is necessary to pry off the coating on one side and roll it neatly into a roll. If the material was laid on a concrete base without glue, it will be easy to remove. Otherwise, the coating will move away with the layers of exfoliated screed. Such material will have to be removed fragmentarily. In the apartment, the cost of replacing the floor from rolled materials is from 80 rubles / m².
There are cases when a qualitatively bonded coating delaminates during dismantling. Dry layers of material remain on the screed, which must be removed with a spatula or scraper, preheating these places with a construction hairdryer. You can also moisten the old adhesive layer with a floor cleaner.
Снятие паркета является более трудоемким мероприятием, особенно если материал крепился клеем на органической основе или битумной мастикой. Паркет демонтируют с помощью зубила, скребка с предварительным нагревом элементов строительным феном. To dismantle old tiles from the floor, the price of which starts from 150 rubles / m², you should use a puncher with a nozzle in the form of a chisel-blade, which switches to the chiselling mode. If such a tool is not available, work is carried out through the use of a hammer and a chisel.
A thorough inspection of the base when replacing a wooden floor
If the device is installed in the apartment of the floor on the logs on which it is planned to mount a new wooden floor, the system should be carefully checked for the presence of deformed, damaged or affected by the fungus elements. All lags are checked under load. The element must not bend, hang and creak. If flaws are found, the pads are updated.
If the lag system is in good condition and does not cause concern, it will be enough to conduct general cleaning of garbage in the inter-lag spaces and mount a new cover. The cavity between the lags can be filled with insulating material, which will act as a sound insulator.
In most cases, the lags are quite worn out and need to be replaced. Dismantling of products must be done carefully and carefully, since the elements are firmly attached to the concrete base. As a result, you can get the destruction of the base pillow, the restoration of which will require additional financial costs and labor resources.
Before changing floors, it is recommended to carefully inspect the concrete screed, which is located under the finish floor covering. The base is tapped in some places in order to detect exfoliation, which should be removed to a healthy layer. In addition, the surface is checked for loose spots. They can be formed as a result of a violation of the technology for pouring a concrete layer that has not gained sufficient strength or has been eroded due to moisture. Such areas should be cleaned.
If the surface contains large gaps, the process of destructuring the base may continue. These areas need to be expanded in depth and in breadth by 10-15 mm for further repairs.
After elimination of all defects and sealing of cracks, thorough cleaning of small debris is carried out.
Complete replacement of the floor in the apartment: dismantling the old concrete screed
If a large number of defects and flaws are found on a concrete base, it is more advisable to make a new screed, the service life of which will be much longer than that of partially corrected. Overhaul is also necessary if mold or mildew is detected.
Another reason for a complete replacement of the floor in the apartment with your own hands may be the need to create an additional insulating and soundproof layer if the ceiling height and dimensions of the doorways will not allow to raise the level of coverage. A new screed is performed in the case of arranging a wooden floor on the logs instead of a thin coating.
There are several options for eliminating the old screed, and the choice of method depends on the material and the thickness of the floor. If the thickness of the base is less than 3 cm, it can be dismantled with a chisel and a small sledgehammer.
If the thickness of the floor screed in the apartment exceeds 3 cm, as well as in the case of reinforcing it with a steel mesh, the dismantling of the base is carried out with the help of special units. For these purposes, a pneumatic jackhammer, a high power puncher with a nozzle in the form of a blade or spades, a circular saw with a diamond blade designed for work on iron and stone are suitable.
Before starting work, you should worry about the availability of personal protective equipment. Here you will need vibration-proof gloves for working with a puncher or jackhammer, protective gloves for garbage collection, a helmet with separate or integrated headphones, respirators, construction shoes with steel toe.
First, a small area of the coating is opened to assess the actual thickness of the base and the quality of the reinforcing mesh. This is necessary to determine the volume and duration of work. The coating must be removed from the far corner, moving along the wall to the exit. Next, the process is performed in stripes - parallel to the wall.
Chipped pieces should be periodically placed in garbage bags and taken out so that they do not clutter up the room.
Dismantling the old floor is a simple but time-consuming procedure, which depends on the dimensions of the room and the complexity of the coating. Following some recommendations, the work can be done independently, which will significantly save financial resources during the repair.
Plastic, if you look closely, then approximately two strips are visible in the middle - 1%
Such skirting boards with cable channel are gaining more and more popularity. They have the most reliable mount. Such skirting boards are screwed on and even nailed with self-tapping screws for quick installation, and the fastening points are closed with a special bar. Theoretically, such skirting boards can be removed and put in place very, very many times. To get to the fixtures, a spatula is usually used:
2. Remove the boards
When laying a wooden floor, the first board is laid with a spike against the wall (or a quarter up), respectively, the dismantling of the floor should begin with a board having a groove for the spike (or laid a quarter down) or from a board that is already all the others, therefore it was cut in width.
If the boards were screwed, simply unscrew the screws and remove one board at a time.
If the boards were nailed, then everything is a little more complicated:
When removing the first board into the gap between the board and the wall, drive the nail between the lag and the board and tear the board so that the edge of the board rises 1-3 cm. Using a hammer and a piece of plywood, push the board into place, while the plywood should not overlap the nail head . If you did everything right, then after you put the board in place above its surface, a nail head (2 or even 3 hats) will stick out to a height of 0.5 -1.5 cm. Place a piece of plywood or thin board in place of the nail clipper support on the floorboard and pull out the nail (s):
Figure 1141.4. Dismantling the first floorboard.
Repeat the manipulations at the attachment points of the floorboard to the rest of the lags. If you do everything carefully, i.e. If you do not undermine the board above, then the spike of the board is usually not damaged and this will allow you to use then removed boards for flooring a new coating. After the nails are pulled out, a crowbar or chisel is gently pushed into the gap between the first and second boards and the first tenon of the first removable board is pushed out of the groove of the second, as yet nailed board. Although you can usually slide the first board out of the groove of the second board even with your hands. After the spike is pulled out of the groove, the first board can be removed. The rest of the boards come off easier, since it is more convenient to insert a nail clipper. The algorithm of actions is the same.
Note: the spike of the board to be dismantled and the groove of the adjacent board are the weakest points when dismantling the floor for quite objective reasons, so the lower the height of the board's detonation, the less likely it is that the spike or top of the groove on the board will crack. Nevertheless, this cannot be ruled out. Wood - anisotropic material, knots, rot and other defects may well occur. Therefore, when a plank on a spike or a groove cracks (not often, but it happened to me, one or two planks per room is, in my opinion, an acceptable result), I take this with understanding. If the tenon is cracked, there is nothing fatal in this; the spikes and grooves in the floorboard are needed not so much to dock the boards at the same level, but to more evenly distribute the concentrated load acting on the board. Therefore, the worst thing that can happen in the absence of one or two spikes is the creaking of the boards, and if the distance between the lags is relatively small, then there will be no creaking. Details of the calculation of wooden boards for deflection can be found here. The same can be said about the breakdown of the lower part of the groove. If the upper part of the groove is cracked or broken off, then the problem becomes more aesthetic than functional. The cracked or cracked part can be glued with PVA glue or nailed with small nails when laying a new coating. But if the aesthetic requirements are very high, then the board will have to be changed.
If the gap between the wall and the floorboard is very small and does not allow you to pry the board with a nail clipper or there is almost none at all, try to bring down the plaster in the place where the lag is adjacent to the wall.
If there is no plaster, or the lag does not adjoin the wall, then it is necessary to cut (drill, chisel) a piece of floorboard near the wall so that the nail puller is driven into the opening, and it is desirable that the resulting opening is further blocked by the baseboard.
If all else fails, knock down a layer of wood around the nails with a hammer and chisel and pull out the nails with a nail clipper. When you put the board in place after the repair, the pits from the chisel can be puttied with acrylic sealant, and if you make a new coating, then there is nothing to worry about.
I hope, dear reader, the information presented in this article has helped you to understand at least a little bit the problem you have. I also hope that you will help me to get out of the difficult situation that I recently got into. Even 10 rubles of help will be of great help to me now. I don’t want to overload you with the details of my problems, especially since they are enough for a whole novel (in any case, it seems to me and I even started to write it under the working title “Tee”, there is a link on the main page), but if I wasn’t mistaken your conclusions, then the novel to be, and you may well become one of its sponsors, and possibly heroes.
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- Elements of construction. The floors. Wooden floors
- Technology performance. General recommendations
The article is interesting in contrast to the philosophical discourse on the complexity of the process. But, it was not disclosed how to avoid breaking the spike of the genital lath during dismantling. After all, he suffers most often.
Somehow I missed this point when writing an article (it seemed that this was understandable). But now he added a rather detailed description to the article.
Thank you for the detailed description of the process!
The customer came across a hell of a lot, it requires Acts of hidden work to dismantle skirting boards.
My skype is alferov.62, we carry out all types of repair work including interior decoration, electrics and plumbing. Tel89271727993
Thanks, it’s clear about dismantling. For 50 years in my floor and nails and screws, i.e. I have to curl up. I will cease. I want to fasten with screws at an angle of 45. So where is it better to drive it: into the tongue or groove? Those. which side of the room should I start to dismantle? You understand that to remove the entire floor is anrial, there is nowhere to put the furniture :(
As a rule, screws (or nails) are driven into a groove. And look at the article "How to level a wooden floor without tearing the board" may help.
Note: Perhaps your question, especially if it concerns the calculation of structures, will not appear in the general list or will remain unanswered, even if you set it 20 times in a row. Why, it is explained in sufficient detail in the article "Make an appointment with the doctor" (link in the header of the site).