If you are a cyclist, you need to be able to deal with a number of typical problems that can happen on the road. A punched wheel is one of the main ones. Unfortunately, you can run into a nail, a piece of metal or a broken bottle almost anywhere, and sooner or later this happens to everyone. Already happened? Read our review that we prepared with Onliner on how to change or seal a camera, a tire in a bicycle.
We take out the punched camera
To remove the damaged camera from the wheel, you need to remove it from the bicycle - it is much more convenient to work this way. After that, follow the step by step instructions:
1.Unscrew the protective cap from the nipple. If required, lower the wheel completely. This will facilitate the work, as there will be no unnecessary resistance.
2.Using the installation, pick up the edge of the tire and pull it out of the rim. Special tools allow you to carry out this procedure quickly and as painlessly as possible. If there is no mounting, you can try to use any thin and durable object, for example, a spoon. Her handle more than once helped out cyclists who had no repair tools at hand. Make sure that it does not bend.
Important: The tool should not have sharp ends, so a screwdriver is not the best solution, although it corresponds to a given shape. With it you can only damage the wheel more. If you want to keep the tire, do not do this.
3.It is optimal to use two montages. First, pick up the edge of one, then, when you fix the position, pick up the tire in the second and second mounting 2-3 cm. This will be followed by a weakening of the pressure, and the work will go easier. While continuing to support the first mounting with your hand, with the second, continue to pry the tire in a circle until it is completely released from the rim.
4.Now that one edge of the tire is completely removed, loosen the nipple and take out the damaged chamber.
We will consider the installation process with the installation of both a new camera and tires. If you are saving an old camera, skip the first step.
Install a new tire
1. We put a new tire on one “rib” of the wheel, so that we have a free pocket for inserting the camera.
2. We take a new camera (deflated) and, starting with the nipple, we lay it along the rim.
3. While the camera is not yet closed, pump it up a little to make sure that it is laid evenly and is not twisted anywhere. If the camera is installed with a kink or twisted during the installation process, it will most likely burst as soon as you sit on the bike. You must admit that you don't need such extra frustrations, because these are not only spoiled plans, but also additional financial expenses.
4. Now you need to "fill" the tire into the rim. In the first steps, this is done manually, but in the end, installation will be required again. You can deal with one, but it’s better to use two. Use it to pull the tire slightly over you so that it easily fits into the rim. By mounting you can push the tire a little inward so that it is better fixed. The main thing is that the mounting depth is the same throughout the circle.
5. After the wheel is closed, pump the camera to the desired state. Usually the desired pressure is indicated on the tire, check it to properly configure your pump.
6. Now tighten the cap on the nipple to fix the condition of the wheel.
7. It remains to install the wheel in place and all. Now your bike is on the go again! Make a small circle on it at low speed to make sure everything is fixed correctly and you feel comfortable. If necessary, pump up the chamber of the second wheel so that they are equally elastic. After replacing one camera, many cyclists feel slight discomfort while riding. If everything is fine - you can go on the road. Suddenly what happens, you already know how to change a tire and you can do it even in traveling conditions.
Try not to rush during the procedure and be careful at every step. Any negligence can then turn into problems on the road. If you keep the old tire, do not forget to check its inside for the presence of piercing and cutting elements. It often happens that part of the object that pierced the camera breaks off and remains in the tire. This may result in repeated damage to the camera. So, if you managed to find the "culprit" of the tragedy, make sure that you have extracted it completely.
When working with the montage, be sure to hold it with your hand, even if it seems to you that it is holding by itself. Tire resistance can easily push it out. In the best case, it will simply fall and you will have to start work again. At worst, it will fly out with force and can hit you in the face. The sensations are unpleasant, not to mention the fact that it can be traumatic.
Bike Camera Replacement
During long trips, it is advisable to carry not only a bicycle tool, but also a spare camera, with which you can quickly replace a failed one and go on. After all, it is much faster than expecting the glue to dry on the freshly glued. Therefore, in this section we will consider such a question as how to remove a bicycle tire and replace the camera when it is punctured.
- Remove the wheel from the bike. To do this, weaken the eccentric (or unscrew the fixing nut on the axis).
- We wipe the side surfaces of the tire and rim from dirt with a rag.
- We lay the wheel to one side and make a mark with chalk (or other improvised materials) on the tire opposite the nipple of the camera. If there is nothing at hand, then we remember this position, relying on the side inscriptions. After that, the wheel should remain only on this side. This is necessary so that after we take out the camera and find a puncture on it, we can, applying it to the tire, find the place where the foreign object pierced the latter. In most cases, the nail or needle of the plant remains in the tire of the bicycle, and if it is not removed, it will pierce the new chamber immediately after its replacement.
- We unscrew the cap of the nipple of the chamber, and, pressing on the nipple, release the air until the edges of the tire "lag" from the sides of the rim. The entire camera can not be lowered.
- Then, using a special side scapula (mounting), we pry off the edge of the tire, and resting the blade against the wall of the rim, we pull its side out.
Be careful not to get the camera between the mounting and the rim. This may cause it to rupture. If you don’t have a store blade, then you can use any non-sharp, preferably a plastic item of a similar shape. It is not worthwhile to use wooden products (they may be burr) or metal products that damage the paintwork of the bicycle rim for these purposes. Sharp objects (screwdrivers, knives, etc.) are strictly not recommended. They can damage both the camera and the tire.
It is important not to turn it over to the other side until we find the puncture site and find it on the tire (by attaching a camera to it).
Then you should repair the punctured chamber, for example, after you arrive home from a bike ride, or during a break.
How to determine the puncture site
At first glance, a very simple procedure for identifying a puncture site can be much more complicated depending on where you found a flat tire (at home or while traveling). To simplify the search procedure, it should be borne in mind that in 90% of cases it is located on the so-called “contact spot” of the wheel with the road, usually not higher than 2/3 of the height of the camera. An exception may be damage from the rim (if the rim tape failed on the last one) or the iron threads of the tire cord that have come out. Therefore, we will consider several options for finding a hole in the bicycle chamber through which air is blown away.
- The easiest way is to lower the camera into the water. It is enough to have a small tank, the depth of which allows it to be submerged at least 2/3 of the height. We rotate the chamber until we find air bubbles that will burst from the water. After we get it, we find the puncture site and proceed to repair.
- If there is no water in the vicinity, then fine dust (which can be found on dirt roads) will come to the rescue. Increase the pressure in the chamber to strengthen the air stream from the hole and bring it a short distance to the dust (without touching it). We rotate the camera, and look at the place where the dust begins to fly away.
- If there is calm weather on the street, then a puncture can be detected by holding the camera to the wetted wrist (its inner side). The skin should be wet in order to simplify the search procedure as much as possible. It is also desirable to increase the pressure for this method.
- With a strong puncture in a quiet place, you can detect it by ear.
How can I seal the camera
Not all glue and not any patch are suitable for eliminating puncture of a bicycle wheel. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on the topic of what is possible and what is not worth gluing the bike camera to. There are several options that we will consider below.
- Specialized repair kits. Many manufacturers of bicycle spare parts produce so-called repair kits for a bicycle camera, which usually consist of a box-case, a crayon for marking a puncture site, a sanitizer (usually a metal perforated plate or a piece of sandpaper), several patches of various shapes and sizes, and glue. The composition of the glue is specially designed for joint use with the surface of specifically given patches (with which it enters into a chemical reaction), therefore, its use in conjunction with patches of another manufacturer may not give a result. Fortunately, in most of these repair kits, the amount of glue is clearly designed for the number of patches.
- Chinese repair kits for bicycle camera. Some riders underestimate the power of Chinese industry and look at their remotes with disdain. I can’t talk about everything (I’m sure that some of them are really terrible), but for the last 4 years I have been using exclusively Chinese patches from Red Sun (although maybe this is not a company, but the name of the repair kit). They are quite common. For several years of use, none of the patches did not fly off and did not let air through. And the cost of this product is lower than that of famous brands. By cons include the fact that the set contains only glue and patches, and that the most offensive, patches are incomparably larger than glue. Well, these are trifles. In general, I advise everyone.
- The third option is the most unreliable and therefore it should be used only as a last resort. Here we highlighted homemade patches that can be made from an old bicycle chamber. As an adhesive, you can use almost any plastic adhesive for rubber. But in this case, the reliability of the patch is already very low. It says so, "at your own peril and risk." When using homemade patches, you can not use glue, which, when solidified, can burst in places of bending.
- Vulcanization. It sounds good, it turns out very reliable (better than when using any glue and patches, given that you vulcanize in a specialized workshop), but in reality it’s not worth the money and troubles. At home, it is quite difficult to do (but in the field it is impossible) and you can easily tamper with the camera.
How to stick the patch
After we have found and marked the puncture site of the bicycle chamber, we should proceed with its repair, namely, glue this hole. To do this, perform the following operations.
- If the camera is wet (after searching for a defect), then you should wait for it to completely dry. Plus, it should be completely lowered.
- Using a sandpaper or a special perforated iron plate (which is usually present in bicycle kits for camera repair), we clean the puncture site until a matte color appears. The sanding area should be 1 centimeter larger than the size of the bicycle patch in diameter. After this procedure, we try not to touch this place with our hands or other objects.
- Remove the protective film from the surface of the patch, which we will stick to the camera.
- Apply glue. It can be applied only to the patch, only to the camera, or in both places. This information can be viewed on the tube with glue. We also pay attention to the exposure time indicated in the same place and the time of complete solidification (the last two points may not be indicated).
What to do if the camera releases
If after you have sealed the puncture on the bicycle camera, it still lowers over time, then you should check:
- Does the air from under the lattice poison? To do this, place the patch should be lowered into the water and make sure there are no air bubbles. If they are, then you have to tear off the old one and glue the new patch.
- Check for other smaller punctures by lowering the chamber into the water. In case of their detection - stick up.
- Are there any air leaks on the nipple. To do this, spit on it (or, if everything is done right, apply a soap solution) and watch for several tens of seconds. If it passes, then bubbles will form on it. In case of leakage, tighten the nipple with a special key.
- Did the metallized cord come out? It happens that over time, on cheap bicycle tires, the cord breaks down, which is a thin wire (on more expensive tires, nylon threads and other materials are used), which can come out from the inside of the tire and constantly pierce the camera. If such a problem is found, the tire should be replaced as soon as possible. A temporary solution is to pull out the protruding wire of the cord and seal this place with a patch for the camera. But again, in this case, tire replacement is required, because this will be repeated regularly.
If the camera is damaged at the base of the nipple (for example, it is frayed by the rim), then it is better to replace it immediately. As a rule, such defects cannot be repaired.
Tips for Avoiding Punctures
To reduce the chance of unexpected damage to the tire and the camera during the trip, you should follow a few simple rules.
- Maintain the working pressure in the wheel at the required level. There is no specific figure, because for certain chambers / tires, the rated working pressure may vary. For example, on mountain bikes, the pressure in the chamber should be about 2.5-5 bar, and on road bikes - 6-9 bar. On the tire cover there are appropriate inscriptions of the minimum and maximum pressure. It looks something like this. If the pressure is too low, this greatly increases the risk of puncture. It is worth remembering that when driving in winter or in the autumn-spring period, the temperature in the street is lower than in the apartment. Therefore, on cold days, the chamber should be pumped up a little more (because with a decrease in air temperature in a closed volume, its pressure decreases). Therefore, if you swing up to 3 bar in summer, then in winter you can increase the pressure by about 1 bar (but not above the maximum allowable).
- Change tires after wear. When working out your resource (erasing the tread), the likelihood of a puncture also increases. And if you have a worn tire, and you began to notice that the wheel began to break through more and more, it is worth thinking about replacing the tire.
On the market for bicycle spare parts, you can find two more devices that are designed to simplify life (at least they position themselves that way) when riding a bicycle. This is an anti-puncture tape and sealant, which is poured in a small amount into the chamber and is designed to "tighten" punctures during riding.
The anti-puncture tape is a strip of soft, rubberized plastic or in more expensive products - Kevlar, which can be glued or simply inserted between the tire and the bicycle’s camera and protect from punctures. But there are pitfalls here. A cheap anti-puncture, firstly, does not always protect against a puncture, and secondly, it can fall apart inside the tire and rub the camera into dust with its fragments, thereby dooming the latter to discharge. Plus, it's overweight. In general, after sitting on the forums, I agreed that they are more hated than praised.
As for the sealant, everything here is not so good either. As a temporary solution, when you do not want to bother with replacing the camera, you can, of course, use it. But the sealant does not completely seal the puncture, but only reduces air leakage. Плюс ко всему наблюдались жалобы после использования, когда на место прокола хотели наклеить латку.
In general, according to the editors, it is better to use better-quality bicycle tires with built-in puncture protection, carry a spare camera with you and do not bother with the above accessories.
After reading this article, we can conclude that replacing and repairing a bicycle camera is not such a difficult task, and sticking it during a trip is not much more difficult than doing it at home. The most important thing on long trips is to have another spare camera and a repair kit with you to eliminate punctures. Also, one should not forget to pump up the camera on time to the required pressure and change worn bicycle tires in a timely manner.
Always have with you
The easiest option is to carry a camera and pump with you. Not all damage can be sealed, and the easiest way to change the entire camera. The only negative of this kit is its weight and volume. The sealing kit is a small box, but the “reserve” is already a serious piece of rubber, which can interfere in a small bag, if you have one with you at all.
Unfortunately, the condition of roads and the general sensitivity of modern bikes to damage leads to the fact that it is impossible to travel further than the city center without a spare bicycle camera or repair kit. What will be needed to replace the minimum version?
- "Reserve" or repair kit.
- A key or multi-tool if the rear wheel is not mounted on an eccentric.
- Pump to pump a supplied or repaired chamber.
Using these tools, you can easily unmount the rear wheel, take out the camera and install a new one in its place.
We should also consider the repair kit. Many never open it from the moment of purchase, but in fact it can be assembled independently. Homemade repair kit comes out several times cheaper.
What does the repair kit contain?
- Patches - usually a few pieces of 2-3 different types. In modern industrial sets, patches are made of synthetic rubber, smooth on one side and rough on the other. On the smooth side, they are sealed with foil or polymer film to stay clean.
- Camera cleaning tool - for better bonding, the surface should be clean and a little rough, a small metal “grater” is used for this.
- Glue - glue for rubber, “melting” it and forcing the patch to form a single whole with the camera.
- Degreaser - rarely, but appears in sets. One of the main problems with gluing is the residual grease or grease on the surface that prevents the patch from sticking; before gluing, the chamber can be treated with a degreaser.
Actually, all parts of the repair kit can be assembled independently. Old cameras are used for patches, stripping is done with ordinary sandpaper, glue is sold in any store, and regular alcohol is a degreaser.
Recently, some have been using anti-puncture gels, and it is enough to pour the sealant into the new chamber before pumping and carefully “disperse” it along the inner cavity of the chamber.
Those who changed the camera with their own hands know, perhaps, the main problem - this is the folding of the side of the tire. Modern tires fit so well on the rim and are so stiff that with your hands this is not always possible.
Therefore, in the composition of many multitools or kits, folding is added. These are small plastic or metal "spoons" that are inserted between the tire and the rim, allowing you to pry and bend the tire, and then put it back on.
So, what actions need to be performed to change the camera. Everything is simple, most importantly, accuracy and a small fraction of physical strength.
- Turn the bike over.
- If the V-Brake brakes - remove (open) them.
- Loosen screw or use wheel to release wheel.
- Lift chain, remove wheel.
- Release air from the chamber (if any).
- Pry off the camera at two points at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other with a flare or any other oblong object (keys, screwdriver, multi-tool).
- Dilute the dots a little, freeing one side of the camera.
- Pull the nipple out of the rim.
- Get out the camera.
So, the camera is removed, you can repair it or print a new one. Install everything back:
- Lay the camera inside the rim.
- Check the nipple and the space under the tire for bites and creases.
- A little pump up the camera so that it takes shape.
- Insert the tire back behind the rim.
- Put the wheel in place (you should be careful with the chain, it is easy to confuse its position).
- Fasten the wheel with a screw or cam.
- Reinstall the brakes.
- Pump up the camera.
- Turn the bike over.
That's it, the replacement is done! As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this process.